Neighborhood Restaurants in Paris: Part 2

Photo above from One Thousand Buildings of Paris, Text by Kathy Borrus, photos by Jorg Brockmann and James Driscoll

Neighborhood Restaurants in
Paris, Part 2

Blogathon June 21

Le Train Bleu (12th arrondissement)
20, Boulevard Diderot/ Place Louis Armand in Gare de Lyon
http://www.le-train-bleu.com/

This is my bonus offering. Not because the food is exceptional (I don’t have first-hand dining experience at Le Train Bleu; I hear that it’s just fair these days) or reasonably priced, but because the interior is a must-see This Belle Époque-dining hall, built 1899-1900, was classified as a historic monument in 1972. In the glorious days of steam travel, passengers dined here when traveling along the Paris-Lyon-Marseilles route, and the restaurant’s name pays homage to a rapid train that went to the Cote d’Azur. According to the restaurant’s website, Coco Chanel, Brigitte Bardot, Jean Cocteau, and Colette were regulars. Renovated in 2014, the glittering brass and glass interior includes chandeliers, a sweeping staircase, and mounted canvas wall paintings of the destinations on the southern train route. You don’t have to dine here to take a peek.

Below for Part 2 dining in Paris are more affordable neighborhood French restaurants. There are so many that I could go on and on. I may yet add another listing to this to cover other neighborhoods not previously mentioned. If I haven’t listed a website, it’s because they don’t have one. For additional notes see my dining blog posted June 19th: http://kathyborrus.tumblr.com/post/121971508978/parisian-neighborhood-restaurants

7th Arrondissement

Le Bistrot du Septième
56 , boulevard La Tour Maubourg
http://bistrotdu7.com
Phone: 01 45 51 93 08

This bistro serves up traditional French fare on tables covered in crisp white linen. The menu is varied with a changing entrée du jour and the principle plat du jour (usually the best deal). The menu selection focuses on beef, lamb, fish and duck. I like the seafood offerings, and the wines and dinner are reasonably priced especially since its location in the chic 7th would indicate otherwise. The staff is pleasant, but they tend to group the Anglophone diners together, which seems to me to be a touch on the condescending side. Nonetheless, you can’t beat the meal and the wine for the price. Closed Saturday and Sunday Lunch.

11th arrondissement

La CuiZine
73 Rue Amelot,
http://www.lacuizine.fr/
Phone: 01 43 14 27 00

I haven’t been back here since 2013, but it was quite good then. It’s not much on décor but great food.  I had a grilled shrimp salad and Dorade. Noel and my friend, Adrian, each had two entrées instead of a main course (hardly ever done in Paris except at brasseries), but Adrian has lived here long enough to be bold about it. She and Noel both started with clams, and then Noel had duck foie gras, and Adrian had the shrimp salad. She and I shared their incredible decadent chocolate-molten cake drizzled with raspberry sauce. All of us enjoyed our meal and I will definitely go back next Paris trip. Closed Sunday and Monday, and midday Saturday. Open noon to 2 PM and 7 PM to 10PM.

12th arrondissement

Le Baron Rouge
1 rue Théophile-Roussel
Phone: 01 43 43 14 32

I wish I loved oysters because if I did, I’d hurry over to Le Baron Rouge where everyone appears to be having so much fun. No one seems to mind waiting either. A lively crowd often spills out onto the street, waiting to eat freshly shucked oysters over large wine kegs at the bar entrance. Indeed, I took Noel here and he loved the oysters and the atmosphere. Slightly off the well-worn tourist path, Le Baron Rouge is close to the lively indoor d’Aligre market. Closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays.

15th arrondissement

Cave de L’Os Moëlle
181, rue de Lourmel
Phone: 01 45 57 28 28

An unusual, communal dining adventure at Cave de L’Os Moëlle (Cellar of the Bone Marrow). Unusual that it is communal/self serve but also unusual with the “French women don’t get fat” mentality that it’s “all you can eat;” the caveat being you must eat what you take. A friend of mine who lives in Paris loves it and I’ve eaten there twice, but I’m too picky an eater to enjoy it. Your food is whatever the restaurant decides they are making that day. They pass it around family style. I’d rather order my own, but it’s different and most people love the atmosphere. Closed Mondays. Open Tuesday 4PM -10PM, Wednesday-Sunday, 10:30 AM-10 PM.

 

16th arrondissement

Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil
99 Boulevard de Montmorency
www.lebeaujolaisdauteuil.com/
Phone: 01 47 43 03 56

This neighborhood restaurant/café is a great afternoon stop, where you can sit outside, sip a glass of wine, and munch on a tasty cheese offerings. But you can also have a lovely dinner inside or out at reasonable prices, served by young, friendly, and whimsical waiters who sport wooden bowties. Dine on classical French cuisine with a modern twist including smoked herring caviar and celery roumelade. Located at Porte d’Auteuil, its contemporary interior has mirrored walls, tiled floor, and velvet chairs. It’s a perfect stop if you’re on your way to Roland Garros or the Auteuil
Hippodrome. Open everyday from 8 AM to 1 AM.

Drink French Wine in Paris the American Way: O Chateau Restaurant

Blogathon July 20

Today’s feature: O Chateau—Restaurant, Wine Bar, Tastings
rue 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st arrondissement
http://www.o-chateau.com/

“Wine education is too old, too stuffy, too pretentious,” says Olivier Magny, owner and founder of O Chateau, offering wine tasting experiences in Paris. “I’ve always thought that most people talking about wine were just boring and uptight.”

Magny is anything but old, stuffy, or pretentious. On the contrary, the youthful, clear blue-eyed entrepreneur smiles broadly while deftly opening the first bottle of wine for his audience of American tourists. Instantly, Magny uncorks the stuffiness in French wines and simultaneously releases a full bouquet of fun, American style.

Magny promises a unique experience and delivers. “To me, wine should bring people together. And I’ve realized that most people talking about wine just set barriers between them and ‘novices’ with unnecessary jargon or supposedly refined, deep and chic wine-related thoughts and analyses –more or less consciously. While in the USA, I realized most Americans thought French wine was very complex and intimidating. I figured I could try something to cope with those two things.”

With un-bottled enthusiasm, charm, and humor, Magny dispels the mystery of French wines as he chats casually about the regions of France and asks questions that prompt taste buds to discover that hint of oak or berry or spice.

I was invited to one of Magny’s original wine tastings when he was just getting started about 10 years ago, and it was a delight. Today, he has expanded his offerings to include a restaurant, wine bar, private events, and tours including a Day Trip to Champagne as well as different levels of wine tastings.

“Our tastings are a great opportunity to meet new people,” says Magny. “People get to talk with me, with other customers. And it’s actually quite rare when you’re traveling to get a chance to really sit and meet with other people. I enjoy it very much. And wine is my best ally for this—the more the tasting goes, the more people talk and have fun! It’s great to see people open up.”

Magny, a rugby player, selects wine with the same energy and passion and openness he brings to the game.

“Wine like rugby,” he says, “gives you an excuse to go talk to the person next to you. An oval ball and a glass of wine are just like an open door. A warm welcome.”

His infectious delight in wine extends to his customized tastings for any personal or business occasion. “Wine when used properly and not in a boring manner is a great and oh-so-effective team building tool because it makes it possible to go beyond just work talk.”

In the words of rugby player Pierre Berbizier, Olivier Magny is “the best ambassador for French wines in Paris.“

I’ve yet to try the restaurant or the wine bar, but given the fun I had on the first wine tasting, the restaurant is on my list for my next visit. By the way, the location is a five minute walk from the Louvre and you can enjoy complimentary wifi with your wine.

Parisian Neighborhood Restaurants: Part 1

Blogathon June 19

Below, I’ve compiled a relatively up-to-date neighborhood restaurant list of my favorites. Most are all reasonably priced, generally non-touristy, and very good.

I’ve noted some of the meals I’ve had with friends—no guarantee that they are still good by the time you go, or that your taste and mine are the same.

If you are looking for fancy, expensive Michelin rated restaurants, look elsewhere. But if you want a good local meal with decent wine at prices that won’t break the bank, then look below. Most also have a low decibel level and thus are easy to have a conversation in without shouting.

A few other notes:

  • Except for brasseries, most French restaurants don’t start serving dinner until 7 or 7:30 PM. So, if you get hungry early, find a brasserie (most serve all day) or eat a
    late lunch.
  • A strict no smoking ban exists inside restaurants. If you enjoy dining outside, expect smoke.
  • The best deal dollar-wise is usually the plat du jour.
  • Many small French restaurants do not have their own website, which is why a few websites are missing below. But you can usually find out more about them through websites such as TripAdvisor.com. Just Google them and information will usually pop up.
  • I have listed phone numbers, if you want to make a reservation, but if you are worried about your French, don’t; many owners speak English. Or try reserving with the French
    equivalent of Open Table, la fourchette: http://www.lafourchette.com/.

Restaurants are organized by arrondissements:

1st arrondissement

Goumard
9, rue Duphot
www.goumard.com
Phone: 01 42 60 36 07

This first one is the exception to the pas cher list; it’s pricey, but exceptionally good. Friends Arnaud and Dan recommended it, and Noel and I had a great meal here in May this year. Fish is the specialty of the house. Noel had Belen oysters then the monkfish grilled in a stew with mushrooms. It was outstanding. I had a crab frothed appetizer that was good but a little rich and weird, then grilled salmon on a beetroot concoction. Tasty but Noel definitely picked the winning dish. There are nice little touches with bread stick crudities and crusty baguette rolls with an anchovy butter. The ambiance is low key but stylish with velvet banquettes, wood-paneling, and even elegant bathrooms with mosaic décor.

2nd arrondissement

Domaine de Lintillac
10, rue Saint Augustin
http://www.lintillac-paris.com/
Phone: 01 40 20 96 27

This restaurant is all about duck and is a typical French bistro that mostly locals know about. It’s a lively neighborhood place, good food, good vibes, but note: The French always like to prepare their duck on the rare side. To get around this (if that doesn’t suit your taste), I always have Confit de Canard (has to be well-cooked). You usually need a reservation.

 

3rd arrondissement

Cafe Charlot
38 rue de Bretagne
http://www.cafecharlotparis.com/en/
Phone: 01 44 54 03 30

Typical French neighborhood café in the Marais with a lively crowd. My friend Adrian (it’s in her neighborhood) and I had grilled salmon with veggies, Noel had veal Milanese. Three of us ate here for 84 Euros including three glasses of wine and a beer. Very good, light meal.

Chez Omar
47 Rue de Bretagne
Phone: 01 42 72 36 26

Couscous and more here. A neighborhood joint that’s busy and noisy, but entertaining. It’s walking distance from the Centre George Pompidou. It has a limited menu but consistently good grilled fish and other fare. I usually have the grilled swordfish. Waiters are friendly and fun.

 4th arrondissement

L’Ange 20 restaurant

8, rue Geoffroy L’Angevin

http://www.lange20.com/lange20/Accueil.html

Phone: 01 40 27 93 67

This is a tiny restaurant so make a reservation. It used to have a waiting list of a couple of months, but I think it’s not quite as popular as when it first opened. It’s creative but a bit inconsistent. The restaurant sits twenty in a square space with diners packed in like sardines and an open kitchen at the back. A waiter, a chef, and a sous chef serve up entrees, plats, and dessert for about 30 Euros fixed price.  I’ve had delicious meals there that included a smoked salmon salad with potato salad on the side. Main dish was a blanquette du veal dans sauce crème avec  champignon. I’ve eaten there about four or five times. Each time the food was great, but the most recent time was a bit disappointing and uneven. But if you’re planning to be near the Centre Pompidou, it’s worth the walk down the nearby street, which looks deserted and a little iffy, but it’s perfectly safe.

Le Felteu
15 Rue Pecquay
Phone: 01 42 72 14 51

I ate here for the first time this past February with my Parisian friend, Isabelle, who is also a wonderful artist (http://www.isabelle-bonzom.org). Tiny, old-time, neighborhood bistro near Centre Georges Pompidou on a nondescript, deserted side street. An online review I saw called it “a hole in the wall” (just so you know what you are getting into). I had a delicious goat cheese salad–it’s quite large so easy to share with someone else, then excellent Confit de Canard. Isabelle had a tasty lamb dish and we shared a side of potatoes au gratin. An excellent meal, reasonably priced with wine. If you go, don’t miss the potatoes au gratin.

Le Petit Bofinger
6 Rue de la Bastille
http://www.bofingerparis.com/en/menu/petit-bofinger.html
Phone: 01 42 72 05 23‎

This is the baby version of the larger brasserie across the street. Both are very close to the Bastille. Charming. Typical French fare of meat or fish.

 

5th arrondissement

Les Fêtes Galantes
17, rue de l”Ecole Polytechique
Phone: 01 43 26 10 40

Traditional family-run French bistro. Tiny joint with tables close together. Charming but quirky: Postcards, business cards, and dollar bills cover the walls, and women’s bras hang from some of the rafters. The street is a bit difficult to find but worth the effort. I’ve never had a bad meal here. You might get lucky and get a table, but it’s best to call for a reservation.

Restaurant Marty
20 Avenue de Gobelins
http://www.restaurantmarty.com/page.php?id=1&title=Accueil
Phone: 01 43 31 39 51

Excellent seafood. I’ve had two very good dinners here, but it’s been a few years.  With its Art Deco décor it’s more upscale and a bit more expensive than the others.

Moissonnier
28 rue Des Fosses des St-Bernard
Phone: 01 43 29 87 65

Best quenelle—a ground fish loaf that’s poached—you will ever taste. Ever. Recommended by a Parisian friend. Lives up to its reputation. It’s family-run, home-style Lyonnais cuisine so there are other menu options, but I usually just have a salad and the quenelle. It’s a small space so make a reservation.

6th arrondissement

La Maison du Jardin
27 Rue de Vaugirard
Phone: 01 45 48 22 31

This one is a lovely discovery near Luxembourg Gardens, a block or two away. Typical fare: grilled sea bream, lamb stew, braised veal, duck pate, spinach and smoked fish salad. Meals here prepared in classic French style and the staff is quite pleasant.

Where to Eat in Paris

I’m often asked where to eat in Paris. So, posted below in no particular order are some of my favorites–a few just discovered; others are ones I used to love but haven’t gone to in quite awhile. So, I cannot guarantee they are still around or good. Please write in if you’ve dined at any that should no longer be on this list. These are (or used to be) all reasonably priced and very good:

 La CuiZine

73 Rue Amelot, 11th arrondissment

01 43 14 27 00

Fall 2013, ate here for the first time. A friend who ate with us discovered this restaurant in the 11th through La Fourchette (French version of Open Table). It’s not much on décor but great food. Had a grilled shrimp salad and Dorade. Noel and my friend, Adrian, each had 2 entrées (hardly ever done in Paris except at brasseries), but Adrian has lived here long enough to be bold about it. She and Noel both started with clams and then Noel had duck foie gras and Adrian had the shrimp salad. She and I shared their incredible decadent chocolate molten cake drizzled with raspberry sauce. Now one of my favorite neighborhood spots.

Moissonnier

28 rue Des Fosses des St-Bernard, 5th

01 43 29 87 65

Best quenelle—a ground loaf fish that’s poached—you will ever taste. Recommended by a Parisian friend. Lives up to its reputation. Other items on the menu also, but I usually just have a salad and the quenelle. Tiny place, family run, probably good to have a reservation. In the 5th, near the Arab Insititute (which also has a great museum store).

L’Ange 20 restaurant—tiny place make a reservation.

8, rue Geoffroy L’Angevin, 4th

01 40 27 93 67

Discovered this hole in the wall from a Parisian friend who no longer goes there because she doesn’t like one of the waiters. Picky, picky! Truth is it was better when it first opened. The restaurant sits twenty in a square space with diners packed in like sardines. Open kitchen at the back. A waiter, a chef and a sous chef serve up delicious entrees, plats, and dessert for about 30Euros fixed price.  I’ve had delicious meals there that included a smoked salmon salad with delicious potato salad on the side. Main dish was a blanquette du veal dans sauce crème avec champignon. I’ve eaten there about four or five times. Each time food was great, but the most recent time was a bit disappointing and uneven. But if you’re planning to be near the Centre Pompidou, it’s worth the walk down the nearby street, which looks deserted and a little iffy, but it’s perfectly safe.

Les Fetes Galantes–make a reservation

17, rue de l”Ecole Polytechique, 5th Arr.

Traditional French. Tiny joint, maybe only half dz tables. Charming, family run. Noel and I have dinner there whenever we’re in Paris. Postcards, business cards, and dollar bills cover the walls, and woman’s lingerie hang from some of the rafters. Never had a bad meal here.

Domaine de Lintillac

10, rue Saint Augustin, Arrondissement 2

Phone 01.40.20.96.27

For a review see http://www.insiderparisguides.com/restaurants/sample.html

This restaurant is all about duck and is a typical French bistro that mostly locals know about. Fun neighborhood place, good food, good vibes, but be prepared: The French always like to prepare their duck on the rare side. To get around this, I always have Confit de Canard. You usually need a reservation. I’ve only been to the one in the 2nd, but there are 2 others, one in the 7th and the other, I think, in the 18th.

Marie Edith

34, rue du Laos, Arron 15th.

01-45-66-44-60

I loved my meal here, but it was ages ago. In fact, though it’s an intimate place, there were eight of us there celebrating someone’s birthday and everyone loved what they ate.

Le Bistrot du Dome

2 Rue de la Bastille, 4th

Very close to the Bastille, lively area, but the restaurant is on a side street so it’s quiet. Very good seafood, reasonable prices. Noel and I really enjoyed our meal here in April. Typical French cuisine.

 Le Petit Bofinger

6 Rue de la Bastille, 4th

01 42 72 05 23‎

Same street as above. Charming. Typical French fare. Reasonable. Noel and I ate here one night and Bistrot du Dome the other. I think if we had to choose one, we’d go to Dome over this one, but we enjoyed both.

Chez Omar

47 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd

A neighborhood place in the 3rd, consistently good grilled fish and other fare, limited menu. I usually have the grilled swordfish.

Cave de L’Os Moëlle

181, rue de Lourmel, 15th Arr

01.45.57.28.28

An unusual, communal dining experience. A friend of mine who lives in Paris loves it and I’ve eaten there twice, but I’m too picky an eater to enjoy it. Your food is whatever the restaurant decides they are making that day. They pass it around family style. I’d rather pick my own, but it’s different.

Le Baron Rouge

11th

1 rue Théophile-Roussel

Métro: Ledru-Rollin

Closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays

Slightly off the well-worn tourist path, close to the lively d’Aligre market. Great if you like oysters. People line up to eat freshly shucked oysters over large wine kegs at the bar entrance.

Marty’s

20 Avenue de Gobelins
Paris , 5 arr.
43-31-39-51

Seafood, art deco

Had two very good dinners. Art Deco interior. Probably is a bit more expensive than the others.

A few other ideas for when you want a break from French food:

Higuma

32 bis, rue St-Anne, Arr 1, near Louvre, Palais Royal

Asian cuisine. Super fresh, made in front of you. Japanese noodles, rice dishes, ramen soups,  Good lunch stop. I’ve also had dinner there. Always busy.

Marco Polo

8, rue de Conde, 6th arr.

Satisfies any Italian craving you may have. Filled with locals. Make a reservation. Sometimes the waiters can be a little rude, but the food is good.

L’as du Fallafel

34, rue de Rosiers, 4th arr.

Best falafels in Paris, good lunch stop.

Paris Main d’Or

133, rue du Faubourg St -Antoine at entrance to Passage de la Main d’Or, 11th arr

Corsican food, my type of place, tasty pasta, but Noel thought his sardines were too fishy. We go back and always have pasta now.

Le Paprika

28, avenue de Trudaine (corner of rue des Martyrs), 9th

Tel: 01 44 63 02 91

Métro: Pigalle/ Notre Dame de Lorette

Hungarian! This place is a riot with strolling musicians. The food used to be great; haven’t been for several years. Interesting residential neighborhood, not far from Museum of the Romantic Life and Musee Gustave Moreau.

Sabraj

175 rue Saint-Jacques, 5th close to Luxembourg Gardens

01.43.26.70.03

Indian, very good esp Vegie dishes, inexpensive, casual.

Yugaraj

14 rue Dauphine

Indian restaurant in 5th I think. Expensive but delicious.

Also, there are lots of Indian restaurants in Paris. My favorite is Sabraj in the 5th, an easy walk from Luxembourg Gardens.

Dalloyau

2, place Edmond-Rostand, 6th , across from Luxembourg Gardens

They have a tea room upstairs, pastries and great chocolate ice cream.

Fun Markets/ Streets (some of these are open two days a week, but I don’t know the days other than what I listed)

Rue Montorgueil (gentrified area in the 2nd), all the time.

Rue des Martyrs 9th all the time

Rue Mouffetard 5th all the time, fun to just walk the street.

Blvd Raspail (organic market in 7th, very civilized) Sundays till 1

Barbes Market (18th) (like going to a market in the 3rd world), under the Barbes metro, Sat AM till 1

Richard Lenoir Market 11th Sundays till 1

Aligre market 12th (Sunday/Tues)

Passy (16th, very civilized)