Final Dream Wrapped Up: Christo’s L’Arc de Triomphe

Shimmering silver and bounded by red recyclable rope, Christo’s and Jean-Claude’s last project drew throngs of visitors on opening weekend. With the Champs-Elysées closed to vehicle traffic and security guards and police carefully monitoring comings and goings, the L’Arc de Triomphe-Wrapped–unveiled officially on September 18–is the fruition of a sixty-year-old dream. A monumental dream.

Covid be damned, everyone who viewed the masterpiece was in a celebratory mood, masked and unmasked, freely mingling about under a hazy sunlit sky, enjoying the mild weather. Someone was handing out woven sample swatches of the wrapping—metallic silver on one side, bright aqua blue on the other. A few people dressed in costume. Most were content to circle the monument and snap photos with sheer delight.

Imagine the material and preparation and engineering: approximately 270,000 square feet of blue-backed silver polypropylene, nearly 10,000 feet of the same plastic red cording, and a structural support of steel slabs weighing 150 pounds so as not to harm the arch’s friezes. It was approved by the France’s Center of Monuments Nationaux and supervised by Christo’s and Jeanne-Claude’s nephew Vladimir Yavachev. According to Roger Cohen in his New York Times article, “Building the cages whose steel bars pass an inch or two from the outstretched hand or foot of a frieze or a funereal relief was painstaking. So was rappelling down to work under the overhangs of the cornice. In all, 1,200 people labored on the wrapping.”

The Arc stands at the center of Place Charles de Gaulle, now nicknamed—on an amusingly plastic-wrapped sign—Place Christo & Jean-Claude. Seen from the twelve roads that radiate from the Place, this imposing monument is a natural tourist site with a 360-degree view of Paris atop its observation deck.

Originally commissioned in 1806 by Emperor Napoléon to glorify France’s Grande Armée’s victories of 1792, this colossal and neoclassical arch—was thirty years in the making. Napoléon did not live to see its completion. It was erected fifteen years after his death.

Since then, the Arc has been witness to history: Among many highlights, in 1885, mourners passed by to view Victor Hugo in his coffin; returning WWI French soldiers marched beneath it; Nazi soldiers stomped through it during their WWII Occupation; French and US Military paraded around it in victory, in 1944. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier lies beneath it, and each night the eternal flame is lit in remembrance.

This posthumously completed dream—36 years after the couple wrapped the Pont Neuf, Paris’s oldest bridge—is a fitting memorial to the life and work Christo and Jeanne-Claude. As they planned, the wrapping moves sensually in the wind and reflects light. I wonder what Napoléon would have thought of it. Like life, it’s fleeting in nature, and will be dismantled on October 3rd.

L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped, Paris, 1961-2021.
On View: September 18-October 3


Blogathon, June 3

So, I’m obviously fixated on the Eiffel Tower, its 2.5 million rivets, and 7,300 tons of wrought iron from any angle. I’m fascinated by how such heavy metal can be so graceful. As I say in Five Buildings of Paris, it’s a marvel of late nineteenth century engineering. And yet, typical of the French intelligentsia of the day (or of today’s critics of any new Parisian building), it was widely criticized and branded, a “truly tragic street lamp,” and a “hole-riddled suppository,” among other derisory nicknames. Destined to die twenty years after the 1889 World Exposition, it became a scientific site—thanks to Monsieur Eiffel’s ingenuity—that has endured to become the global, quintessential icon of Paris.

The above tree-framed view is from Pont Mirabeau which connects the 16th and 15th arrondissements. Without the Eiffel Tower arising from the banks of the Seine, the view in either direction could well be anywhere in the world (see photos below).

Today, at night, its rays emit golden sparkles of light for five minutes every hour on the hour until 1AM, and its beacon rotates 360 degrees, shining its light on all of Paris.

A bit of trivia:

  • On inauguration day, the elevator broke forcing Gustave Eiffel and various dignitaries to traipse up 1,665 steps to plant a flag at the top.
  • In 1898, it was a radio broadcast tower and now emits television signals.
  • In 1903, it was a military radio post.
  • In 1925, it initiated the first public radio program.
  • In 1980, Superman saved the Eiffel Tower from terrorists (still paying attention?).
  • For the duration of the French Open at Roland Garros, a giant yellow tennis ball hangs from the lower level.

Trocadéro Hill in Paris

June 2:

Returning from a visit to my old high school in New Jersey to jury student art awards, I thought I would say a few words about yesterday’s photo. But posting from a wobbly train at night is not as easy as I thought. So, I’ll be brief and say if you’ve never been to the Trocadéro, add it to your next Parisian itinerary.

The vantage point of the aforementioned rainy day view of the Eiffel Tower is from one of the two side buildings which arc around a vast esplanade of the Palais de Chaillot. Located on the Trocadéro hill in the sixteenth arrondissement, it overlooks the Seine with a direct sight line to the tower from the west. It’s a view not often seen by tourists in the center of Paris.

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